SIZING

Sizes + Fitting Tips

We are currently in the process of updating our sizing options! If you want to know which patterns contain our full size range, check our Style Update page! 
The sizes marked on the size guide are the smallest measurements to fit into each size. If you are between sizes, Size Down unless otherwise marked on your pattern directions.
To achieve excellent fit within each of our twelve sizes, we draft to three benchmark sizes at XS, XL, and 4X. Each section of our size chart receives its own unique shaping and proportions to create the most comfortable and easiest fitting experience for our customers.
Fabric Tips
Our patterns are drafted for use with stretch fabric with 4 way stretch, with 50-75% stretch along the direction of greatest stretch. To measure stretch, mark 4” on your fabric away from the selvedge and cut edges. Each inch it comfortably stretches is 25% stretch.
Note   If your fabric is less stretchy, size up. If your fabric is more stretchy, size down. 
All of our samples are made with Bamboo Rayon Jersey with 3% spandex. It has a 50% horizontal stretch and a 30% vertical stretch. The sheer mesh is 100% nylon with 50% horizontal stretch and 20% vertical stretch. 
To select appropriate fabrics, aim for natural fibers with 3-5% spandex, Lycra, or elastane. Choose anything that feels nice to you, that you’d like underwear to be made out of! If you’re online shopping, we recommend ordering samples to get a feel for what you like best. 
Bust Sizing
All of our top patterns include (or are being updated to include) Small Bust and Large Bust sizes. The Small Bust sizes are marked B/C cup, and either are drafted to accommodate or include instructions for fitting flat chest to A cups. 
Large Bust sizes are marked D/E cup and are either drafted to accommodate or include instructions for fitting cup sizes up to J cups. 
Our cup sizing is based off of commercial cup sizes instead of ‘sewing cup’ sizes. Use whatever cup sizes you normally wear in bras for this indication.
Note   If you don’t know if you’re a Small Bust or a Large Bust, we like to go by the general advice that if shirts don’t normally fit well, gape at the arm or pull across the bust, you should choose a Large Bust or D/E cup size. If shirts fit fine or are typically loose in the bust, choose Small Bust or B/C cup size.
Stomach + Bum Sizing
Our bottoms patterns feature a wide gusset and are fitted to a full stomach, abdomen, and bum, especially in the X Range (1X - 6X). Some include Full Seat and Small Seat options, depending on the fit of the design. If you do not have a full abdomen, have a small bum, or prefer a narrow gusset, the pattern includes easy instructions for how and when to make those fit adjustments. 
Finding Your Sizes
When finding your sizes, you don't have to be all in one column. It's very normal to be a combination of sizes for bust, underbust, waist, and hip.
Grading between sizes is much less necessary with stretch garments. Our size chart is an indication of what sizes may best fit you. 
The easiest way to find which size will fit best is to check measurements before starting your project. Use the Finished Measurements chart in the directions and your intended fabric and/or elastic trim to fit test which size will fit the most comfortably.
Your underbust measurement is not just your regular band size. Measure with a soft tape measure to find this number. 
If you have any questions, Sophie is available to help you any time! She is most readily available on Instagram at @Sophie_Hines 
Full Bust Concerns? Check out this review of our Ascension Soft Bra by full bust blogger Amber of Scarlet's Letter - 
I’m done. I can’t do it anymore. I don’t have to do it anymore. Sophie Hines, Sparkle Fairy Princess herself, has already done it for me. She has made THE bralette to end all bralettes. Her work is a mirror of her passion, artistry and determination. After being a super fan of Sophie’s work for a few years now, I finally (FINALLY!) got the chance to get my hands and boobs on a Sophie Hines original. I now have the Sophie Hines Ascension Bralette in my possession. And just like that, my outlook on bralettes has forever changed. I thought they were cute, but not for me. Not for these BOOBS. I have kind of heavy breast tissue and usually wear a 32FF/34F these days when it comes to bras. Underwires are my BFFs. I searched high and low trying to find a bralette that might work with my bust, but really it just felt disappointing, like my boobs were just not meant to be with this cute lingerie staple. My rack and bralettes were just star-crossed lovers. It was a forbidden love. Or so I thought. So I already have a huge crush on Sophie, she’s so smart and talented and gorgeous inside and out and she’s so caring and compassionate. Plus, she makes ethically made lingerie, handmade to order, AND gives a portion of the money to charity. Like, for really reals? How is she even real? This gal is the boss, applesauce. Anyway, I was totally in love with the gorgeous Ascenion bralette in black/beige, but then I saw her 2.0 version in a gorgeous lavender/white color. I love the colorway! The softness of the sweet lavender, paired with the brightness of the white, along with the black underband. This bralette is bae. Sophie can make her pieces to measure, but her size chart is really easy to follow, and she can combine sizes, like if you would need Large cups, but a Medium band, etc. Homegirl can do it. I received my gorgeous bralette, and it was a magical moment. First off, no plastic packaging or tissue paper. My bralette was packaged in a gorgeous recycled paper envelope that felt so good to touch, and it’s just pretty! I plan on re-purposing it and using it as an envelope to send a letter (snail mail, the old fashioned way, kids!). 
My boobs never look like this in a bralette. Ever. My boobs tend to be too heavy to be supported without a underwire, but this bra gave me lift, and it hugged my boobs with love. Literally, my boobs felt like they were receiving an actual hug. A supportive, oomphing hug. I modeled this bralette in the mirror. I did strike a pose, or…12. I did the boobie jiggle test, I shimmied. I felt like a super heroine ready to save the world. The soft stretchy mesh really wrapped around my curves, the bamboo adding softness, and adding a really fun geometric design to the cups. The gorgeous lavender straps and lining added a lovely pop of color, and the black underbust band was so comfortable. I felt like I wasn’t even wearing a bralette, it was that comfortable. It felt like me, but amplified. My breast shape and size worked so well in this bralette. I’m actually wearing a size Large, but I think next time I will go with a Medium or a Medium band with Large cups. I feel like if the band were a bit more snug (it’s very true to size) I would have even more lift and support. The band does fit nicely, but I did a little bit of measuring wrong, so even though Sophie was like “I can give you a smaller band if you need it, no worries, I got you”, I thought I would err on the safe side and choose a slightly larger band. Now I realize there was no need, Sophie’s sizing is spot on and very true to size. See, this was how I viewed bralettes, that they were something I had to be cautious about. Nay, Amber, this isn’t so when it comes to Sophie Hines. I’ve learned and will use this information wisely in the future. So next time I will indulge in the ability to choose different sizes in band and cup.

Note   As of 2023 Scarlet's Letter blog is no longer operational.

Shop our Updated Pattern Collection now!

Sophie Hines Designer Lingerie and Underwear Sewing Patterns are gender neutral, size inclusive, and available in sizes from XXS to 6X, and cup sizes from A to J!